Our visit to Myanmar.
My husband Dipak Shah, our friends from the US, Tony and Dee Millard and I had a very enjoyable holiday in Myanmar.
Though Indian, Myanmar has a special significance for me. My grandparents had taken on work assignments in Myanmar at the turn of the last century. My parents were born in Myanmar. They had both studied at the Yangon University, married and settled in the city. My mother was a practicing doctor and my father taught at the university. I was born in Yangon in 1940. Unfortunately their stay came to an abrupt end in 1942 when Japan bombed the city. In spite of this horrendous experience they always carried happy memories of their life in Myanmar. As I was brought away as a two-year-old I had no recall of the place. Hence I always cherished the hope of revisiting Myanmar someday.
The four of us finalised this trip over some months via e-mails between Mumbai, Chicago and Yangon. Though our stay was just 12 days long we were able to visit a variety of places each one offering a new experience.
We arrived in Yangon and proceeded to Kyaiktiyo - Bago - Bagan - Mandalay -Heho - Inle Lake and back to Yangon. All the arrangements were well planned; the hotels were excellent, in beautiful locations and fully equipped. What helped to make it even more enjoyable was that we had a guide with us who took care of all the details throughout the trip.
One of the highlights was our visit to the old Pagoda City of Bagan, the sight of those brick pagodas rising against the skyline in the setting sun is an unforgettable one. After having used airplanes and cars between cities it was wonderful to travel by motorboat through Inle Lake and stay in a hotel on the water.
We felt welcome and comfortable throughout the holiday. The people were hospitable, friendly and helpful. Myanmar is truly a beautiful country, green with the multitude of trees and the gold of the towering pagodas.
Of course, I had a few desires of my own. One was to find my first home in the city of Yangon and the other somewhat mundane was to taste authentic Khauswe (Myanmar noodle dish). My husband and friends were as enthusiastic about locating my old home. An uncle of mine who had also spent his early years in Myanmar had drawn up directions to this home.
Imagine our joy when we finally located the bungalow, with its original latticed window frames and woodwork! We spent an interesting evening with the senior doctor who owned the place and could recall a young lady doctor living downstairs who had treated him for typhoid when he was about fifteen. She was my mother. We took fresh photographs, which matched perfectly with the old ones in my baby photo album. Interestingly my other wish was granted when I discovered khauswe was served at breakfast in our hotel in Yangon.
We plan to return for another tour, this time up to the mountains.
Usha Shah
Mumbai, India
|
|
DESTINATION YANGON, MYANMAR, by Arati Oberoi
Thirteen of us traveling on Septmeber 11th! Though most have brought one piece of luggage, some have two bags, ready to fill with those famous Burmese handicrafts. Funnily enough the luggage still totals only thirteen pieces between us. This strange fact is quickly explained when we realize that some of the group are carrying only handbags. But we find it odd all the same. Is it more than a coincidence? We have two days to find out. This is a whirlwind visit and I am hoping to feel the pulse of the country so will have to cram in all I can - sightseeing, tasting the local cuisine and of course the shopping.
"This is the warmest welcome I have ever received," says a well-heeled member of our group who is a travel agent, when the tour operator's representatives greet us in Myanmar. Although the hospitality of the Burmese people is legendary, the warm welcome may also be recognition that our group of travel agents is a force to reckon with. If the visit is a success our efforts might open Myanmar to Indians who at present consist of less than two percent of tourists to the country?
While we sightsee, Indian Airlines tour leader, Meenakshi Mallik meets with government officials in Yangon both in the transport and tourism ministry. She is pleading the case for Indian Airlines to obtain traffic rights from Yangon to Bangkok. That promises to get a number of Thailand-bound Calcuttans to visit the country.
Evening is the perfect time to start our sightseeing and what better place than the Shwedagon pagoda, dominating the Yangon skyline, a wonder of the world and truly remarkable. Tourism is obviously going great guns here as there is an escalator to the pagoda but we decide to walk up the covered steps, stopping to admire the large paintings on the ceiling depicting Buddha's life. Shops on either side sell souvenirs and baskets with offerings for the enlightened one - flowers, incense, candles, coconuts - our first insight into the local world. From up close the gilded pagoda is even more beautiful and gleams in the dusk. We are told that the tip of the pagoda is studded with diamonds (one of them 73 carats), rubies, sapphires and other precious stones but sadly they aren't visible from the ground. The gallery in the compound, however, has some close up photographs and we are able to marvel at all the gems. Others in the group sit and watch as dusk sets in and the lights come on and a further sense of peace prevails. Having taken off our shoes at the base, the cool marble floor is so clean that walking barefoot is not a chore. We notice that there is no obvious security and our question to the guide on the threat of terrorist attacks seems to shock her. The tour takes us the better part of an hour and leaves us all sufficiently impressed.
The Sule Pagoda in the city centre is another landmark and together with a church and mosque next door, the area has an international hue. There are pagodas everywhere - ideal for the 85 percent Buddhist population who live here. Driving through the city, the cleanliness of Yangon reminds me of Singapore, the wide tree-lined avenues and shady parks are reminiscent of Delhi and the gracious colonial buildings take me back to Calcutta. No wonder Yangon is referred to as the 'Garden of the East'.
There is no evidence of military rule and things look peaceful. Unfortunately the city begins to close down at 5.30pm when the shops down their shutters. People eat early and the roads take on a deserted look by 9pm.. After a visit to the discotheque at the Sofitel Plaza, the guide tells us that it is perfectly safe to walk back to our hotel, The Traders, in the wee hours of the morning. We take her suggestion and no one gives us a second look.
The hotels are plush, comparing favourably with other international deluxe hotels and the cuisine would make any community happy. I was enjoying what I thought was a local delicacy for breakfast, only to be a trifle embarrassed when I found out that it was Japanese sushi! Anyway, one lives and learns.
Scotts Market, just around the corner from Traders Hotel, is a delight and the crowded stalls are filled with all that Myanmar has to offer. Though members of the group rush to buy rubies, I abstain, finding it more exciting to saunter through the many lanes of the market. Finally I give in to temptation and purchase intricately painted lacquerware in interesting shapes and sizes. Paintings made from crushed gemstones and carved wood pieces decorated with colourful stones further lighten my purse and I cannot resist a brightly woven lungi, which I am sure I can carry off at any formal function back home. Silver in traditional designs is a trifle expensive but just browsing at the various stalls gives me a perfect high. How am I going to carry so much back?
Time has run out and we have to get back. Our host in Myanmar, Joe Shein, Chairman of Golden Rock Tours and Travels, has fixed our itinerary so that we get a complete feel of the local culture. Karaweik Palace, situated on the tranquil Kandawgyi Lake is "where we enjoy the real taste of Myanmar". Ideal for tourists, as it has cultural shows including marionette performances and dances from the various states, each one subtly different from the other. The buffet offers a mixture of the local cuisine, plus continental and Asian dishes. Chicken noodle soup seems to be the order of the day and koonji, that is sticky rice, which you can garnish as per your taste, is yumm, contrary to what it looks like. The farewell dinner at the Yangon International Hotel is another authentic treat that Joe organizes for us. He takes us through each dish, explaining the ingredients, and after our hard day's shopping we are glad to wolf them down. Over those few days we concentrate on Burmese food, eating at all the hotspots in the city, except for a lunch in Ashoka, an Indian restaurant that Joe owns.
Needless to say two crammed days of sightseeing, wining, dining and shopping is hardly enough but I have done pretty well and have excellent memories to carry back. There is enough to see in this country to take up a couple of weeks and this little trip has only served to whet my appetite. There is so much here, so much virgin territory just waiting to be discovered. Myanmar is just opening up to the outside world. Even if I can cover the more visited Mandalay, Bagan and Inlay Lake it will be a different holiday - one I just can't wait to experience.
Mrs. Arati Oberoi ( India ) |
